Each pair gets a flight large enough to facilitate flight, bathing, and the choice to be together or apart. Enrichment is typically provided in the form of natural/naturalistic items to interact with, such as safe branches to chew, sea grass mats, sola, pine, or whatever is species appropriate and safe. Birds are housed in outdoor flights with access to sun and shade and have privacy from neighboring pairs in the form of visual barriers between enclosures. When cold weather comes in, enclosures are wrapped in clear marine vinyl to create a greenhouse effect, and supplemental heat is provided when the temperatures become too low. Access to water dishes to bathe in are available year-round, and in warmer weather, direct access to rain showers is permitted. Being outdoors ensures the birds all receive constant fresh air, sunlight, and the natural enrichment of an ever-changing environment.

This varies greatly by species, but generally: All pairs get species-appropriate Psittacus pellets, with breeding pellets offered during breeding season, and a less dense pellet offered during off season. All pairs also receive fresh chop daily in an equal volume to pellet rations. A small amount of seed/nuts are provided daily as well. Species that need extra calcium receive year-round supplementation, and all pairs receive bi-weekly calcium supplementation during breeding season.

Whenever possible, babies are left with their parents for at least one week after their eyes open. This amounts to about three weeks for most conure species and about ten weeks for larger birds. If parents are amenable to my regular interaction with the babies in the box, I will leave them in longer. However, in cases of parental aggression, abandonment, or any other threat to chicks’ safety, they may have to be taken from the parents sooner.

Not if I can avoid it. I will only do so if eggs are at risk, and I typically leave dummies or infertile eggs behind to discourage the parents laying again prematurely.

Babies are raised in my home, around siblings, birds of similar species, and regular exposure to normal household activities and variety.

In most cases, we use a slow syringe feeding method. Chicks are handled extensively during feeding times, inspected and weighed. We are not raising hundreds of chicks at a time so each baby gets physical contact as well as food, and there is no rush.

I can always give an estimate of “about” how long a baby will take to wean, but I can never guarantee an exact date. Each is an individual and will be allowed to wean fully to my satisfaction before it is sent home. Most conures take approximately 10-12 weeks, medium sized species can take 4-5 months, and macaws can take up to a year. When a baby is eating reliably on its own, holding weight, and not displaying begging behaviors, I consider it safe to leave. I do not withdraw formula; the baby must refuse/ignore it for these two weeks on its own.

Babies are weaned onto the same high quality diet as their parents get: Species-appropriate Psittacus pellets, chop, and a small amount of seeds/nuts. I provide a wide variety of foods in a wide variety of formats as I have found that doing so leads to a baby with a lifelong willingness to try new foods and this makes it easier to convert to a new type of pellet as well.

Babies will encounter a wide variety of hanging toys, foot toys, perches and play stands. I focus primarily on natural materials (wood, vine, sola, dried plant pieces, etc.) for toys, as I believe this is safest, though some acrylic toys are permitted. I will usually also let them play with and see a harness, so they are familiar with those! I focus on a variety of experiences to develop bold, confident babies with a broad background and high adaptability. They also get access to large, wide water bowls once old enough to learn to bathe, as well as getting opportunities to bathe in hands in a sink.

All babies start on recall (flying to you) and step up training and are taught to interact with multiple people. I work with them on understanding appropriate beak pressure as well. Babies are also handled extensively and taught to tolerate touch and gentle contact in many aspects, which can help later down the line with things like visual health checks and vet interactions.

To me, flight is the most important aspect of a bird’s being. Every baby is encouraged to fly and do so fully and extensively. I do not clip wings at any point and will not do so. If you are looking for a clipped bird, I recommend seeking a different breeder.

Due to the risk of disease, theft, and other dangers, I do not allow visits to my home, which is where my aviary is. I wish that I had a safe separate location to allow something like this, and maybe I will in the future. At the moment, it is not feasible. I am more than happy to video call with you and provide my opinion on the best match for your needs, though.

Yes. Please see my Policies for full details.

I have a buyer form that asks my most common opening questions for my potential adopters. I ask that you fill that out and then we can chat about any further questions I might have.

Yes, I will take any of my birds back at any point in their lives in any condition and find them new homes. In fact, I ask that every effort be made to either return a bird to me or let me help you find it a new home before a rescue is considered. I do not want any of my birds ending up taking up rescue space from those that truly need it.